Help with JRSC (Really bad idling)

[lundgren]

Even if the TB gasket fits it doesn't mean it's on right. Double check. The pinging is because the map sensor is most likely screwed up, and isn't giving you enough fuel because it is sensing the leak, but the blower is forcing air in after the tb.

I really think it's a leak. Or the gremlins.

[1fstGSR]

No there is actually a small relief valve on the front of the block (left side looking from the front of the car). Turn it counter clockwise to open and bleed off any air in the system while adding coolant.
Will

[94Integra]

===UPDATE===
I have a Water leak somewhere. Does this icon look like I'm mad???
Plus vacumn leak (Can't find it though)

After work today, I went to check on the Fast Idle Valve. Started it up, and it was still idling like a maniac. Put the finger over the FIV and it did nothing. Sucking pretty hard though.

Checked for vacumn leaks by spraying fuild over the manifold and charger and throttle body. Can't see anything.

Decided to bleed the coolant. Added water, and heard water dripping under the car. Cursed loudly.

Guess the charger has to come off now. Good thing Zip posted instructions on the pulley change in the other thread. My guess on water leak is the main water pipe. Had to rotate that as per JR instructions.
Well, at least I can check on my work again.

[This message has been edited by 94Integra (edited January 26, 2000).]

[Holden]

Sorry to hear you have to rip everything out.

I have that chore in my future too to replace my manifold.

Right after I did my install, with everything fresh in my mind, I wrote out plans/instructions for doing the swap. They might help you in addition to zip's instructions. They're at:
http://home.nycap.rr.com/ghjrsc/mani...ulley_fix.html

I would recommend you try to track down that leak more precisely before tearing apart. It might not be the water pipe. I rotated mine slightly by accident and have not developed a leak.

Also, why didn't the leak appear sooner? Was the coolant that low? Or had you not let the engine warm up enough for the thermostat to open? The flaw in my manifold didn't leak until coolant was actually flowing.

Good luck,

Greg Holden

[This message has been edited by Holden (edited January 26, 2000).]

[VTeCno Geek]

Sorry, but I have fought all these vacuum issues before. If the idle is fluctuating across that large of a rev range it is a vacuum leak. I swapped IAC's and checked the Fast Idle Thermo Valve. Mine ended up being a hose that had popped off underneath. You have a vacuum leak. It could be internal to the charcoal canister or the break booster. Get a vacuum gauge and hook it up, you will see the vacuum fluctuate. Again, the culprit sounds like the TB if you still haven't added the other studs yet. As for the water leak, I would think you could fix that without taking the whole SC assembly out. If you do disassemble, make sure and put the TB back in with all 4 bolts/studs, try to get the seal right on the blower, and make sure the bypass valve is hooked up correctly and not leaking around the dump hose from the blower. Good Luck!

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[Holden]

VtecNoGeek: About the bypass air hose leaking, are you sure that matters?

I forgot to tighten one of the hose clamps before everything else went on. It ended up wedged in a way that appears to have caused a tightly sealed hose, but it cannot be moved and/or tightened unless I took a bunch of stuff off.

Because of this, I did some thinking about the effects of a leak on this hose.

If it is leaking:

- Not on Boost: Who cares about the leak. It'll likely be too small of an entrance to allow in dirt.

- On Boost (Bypass Valve closed): If the manifold has positive pressure, the intake tract has negative pressure and the outside of the leak has 0 pressure, any air that pushes itself from the manifold past the valve is going to get sucked into the vacuum of the intake. This would happen the same whether or not the hose leaked.

I don't see how a leak on this hose would cause a loss of power.

I also don't see how this could cause idle problems either, but I haven't thought that one through yet. Anyone have an explanation?


After a re-read, the light bulb just lit up! The vacuum will be lower. Hmmmm. Maybe this is why my idle bobs around a bit. Hmmmm.
How much lower can the vacuum go before things start going wrong?

Greg Holden
96 GSR, JRSC...

[This message has been edited by Holden (edited January 26, 2000).]

[94Integra]

Well, I was on Endyn's board, and someone had the same probs as me.

TOO & another person (Dallas) seem convinced it;s the fast idle valve, so gonna check that as well.

This is the thread

P/s: Is bleeding the coolant just filing in water through the radiator when engine is running?

[This message has been edited by 94Integra (edited January 26, 2000).]

[SSGSRSC]

I agree with what vtecno has said. I was wondering if you replaced the intake manifold gasket. I have seen the problem occur because the old gasket was used; causing a leak. Also, are you bunring coolant? (white smoke out the exhaust)

[VTeCno Geek]

Everyone needs to realize that the ECU is trying to control idle, and it uses a few valves and controlls to assist. If To much air is coming in at idle (i.e. from a vacuum leak), then the engine will rev up, bu the air is not traveling through the TB, and not going by the map sensor. When the engine rev's climb, the ECU tells the IAC valve to shut down and thus cut some of the air back. The ECU will only let IAC valve stay closed for so long (probably to protect the motor inside from burning out) and then it opens back up. The engine revs climb, and the whole cycle starts all over again. So the Engine reving up and down is just a sign of this. Granted, it could also be a bad IAC, but you should get a code for that. The culpret has to be from the intake side of the intake manifold, to where it meets the head. Unless you have an internal vacuum leak (very rare), the air has to be coming in somewhere between the TB and the head. Now the only hard part is finding out where!

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[plumvtec]

I don't know about you guys, but I put mini hose clamps on every vacuum and water line there was. I figured an ounce of prevention....

When I was first debugging my install I had that hissing sound coming from one of the lines on the top of manifold. The sound blended in with the noise from the engine, but when I finally plugged it it seemed real quiet after that.

Needless to say my engine idles like stock and has no hesitation whatsoever.

You may have missed on of the lines that has to be T'd underneath the blower.

I would not disassemble without re going over the install directions one by one. disassembly seems like a lot of work for something simple that may have been overlooked. Especially in this weather!(If you live inthe cold climates)

Good Luck

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'96 JR6 GSR Sedan
'93 Honda CBR 900RR
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